Fishing Rods--Which Is Right For You ( Part three)

Now I have tried to write this and have edited and rewrote several times tryin' to keep from writin' a book. But here goes again for what it is worth. I reckon the easier way is to tell you what I look for in a fishing rod--and why. I'll start with my light saltwater rods because that is what I do most now.

I like to fish the saltwater tidal flats for sea trout, red drum, and snook. This type of fishing requires a long and somewhat accurate cast with either a lure or some type of live bait such as a small bait fish or a shrimp. I have found that making the least splash possible when the bait hits the water is important to keep from spooking the fish so I either 'free line' live bait which means that I don't add a float swivel or weight to enable a longer cast; or I use no more than a 1/4 oz lure-usually a jig head with a plastic tail. This type of fishing requires a 'long cast' reel, small diameter line, and most of all a rod matched to the reel and the line.

I prefer a 7' graphite rod, medium heavy action, with single foot lines guides made with silicon carbide inserts. ( Silicone Carbide is extremely hard and the line will not wear a groove in them) I also want a graphite reel seat that will not corrode in the salt water. I prefer that the line guides are black wrapped in black thread. Some don't think that this is important but just a glare off of a bright colored line guide that reflects into the water will spook a snook or redfish. I want at least eight line guides on the rod. Most commercially built 7' rods have only six and the better ones seven but the excellent ones will have eight. Why? two reasons. When a rod is bent into an arc the extra line guides will insure that the line will follow the curvature of the rod. This will give you more 'lifting' power with the rod and you can actually catch bigger fish with lighter line. Second, the extra line guides give more casting distance. A few years ago a fishing rod component manufacturer called Fuji named it the Fuji concept. But some of us old rod builders had know it for years--especially on graphite blanks.

When I check out a rod the first thing I check for is the way the rod is "spined". A rod has a natural bend to it--all rods do and that is because of the way the glue dries when the rod blank is built. One part of the rod wall will be thinker that the other parts. That will create the natural bend. On a spinning rod the line guides should be underneath the arc when the rod flexs in its natural arc. ( A bait casting rod should be built with the line guides on top--the bait casting reel is mounted to use on top and a spinning reel hangs underneath the rod.) The hell of it is that it is hard to find a 'rack' rod built on spine as they should be. A rod not built on spine has a tendecy to try to twist in your hand when you are fighting a fish--it is trying to revert to the natural bend while you are holding it and the line is bending it the way it is built to bend. Does the fish care? Hell no but if you care about a rods performance you should.

Matching a long cast reel--and there are several good ones on the market for under $100. For the money I like the top shelf Okuma reels. I have found that they hold up as well as much more expensive ones and give me the performance that I want. I load the reels with 10# Power Pro fusion line. This line has the diameter of a top shelf 2# monofilament line but the strength of a top shelf 10# mono line. It doesn't stretch and I mean none at all. This makes it a lot easier to set a hook forty yards out. And, the small diameter increases casting distance by many yards with small lures or freelined live bait--especially when using the rod I described above. A matched rig is a pleasure to use. It should not be tip heavy or butt heavy and the line should be matched to the rod and reel. Don't use 20# line on a rod or a reel made to max out at 15# or you will just wind up tearing something up.

I hope that all of this makes some sense to you. I had never tried writing this down before although I have explained it to thousands of customers. But it is a lot easier when I have the rod, reel, and line in hand to use as training aids. But I do think that if you try it you will like it..especially if you are fishing in a place where a long finesse cast can make the difference in catching fish or going to the fish market for supper.

Next time I will give you an idea what to look for in an off shore rod and maybe discuss the need for roller guides and when you might need them.